The final step of making a quilt is attaching the binding. There are many different ways to go about this. You could purchase pre-made binding, which comes on a roll. There are also a few different ways to make your own binding. In Issue 7, Getting Into Shape, you can find two binding tutorials; Making Bias Binding With Strips and Making Continuous Bias Binding.
When to use Continuous Bias Binding
Not every project requires using Bias Binding. However, when you are attaching binding onto curved edges the flex of the Bias Binding will hug the edges of your curves much easier. Quilt patterns typically will give the fabric requirements for straight cut binding. We have created this cheat sheet to help you determine how much Continuous Bias Binding you need for your quilt. A perfect example of a quilt with a curved edge is the Biltmore quilt by Tiffany Horn of Village Bound Quilts. You can find this pattern inside Issue 7, Getting Into Shape.
The Quilt math
First you have to determine the length of the perimeter of your quilt. To do this add together the length and width of your finished quilt. Then multiply that number by 2. This will be your perimeter. Next you will want to add 10. These extra 10 inches account for mitering your corners and gives you the wiggle room you will need for joining your binding ends.
For example, if I needed binding for a 50” x 60” quilt my math would look like this:
50+60=110, 110 x 2 = 220, 220+10=230
This would mean that I need a Continuous Bias Binding strip of 230 inches.
Using the binding chart
Now you can refer to the chart below to determine the size of fabric square you will need to make your Continuous Bias Binding. If your exact required binding length isn’t on the chart, round up to the closest number. For our example quilt, using the chart below I now know that I will need a 26” square cut of fabric. Now you can refer to the tutorial inside Issue 7, Getting Into Shape, to learn how to create your continuous bias binding.